What and where to eat well in Nis, which cafes should be visited and what to order.
The specific position of the Republic of Serbia on the European map, the location where Western and Eastern culture meet and intertwine, gives it a kind of diversity that a small number of areas in the world can boast of. This cultural diversity has spilled over into the kitchens of Serbian households, as well as into the favorite gathering places of the inhabitants of Serbia and their guests – taverns, in Serbia called – KAFANA. In Serbian, and especially in taverns in the south of Serbia and Nis, the menu of restaurants often includes dishes and „home made“ specialties, gastronomic magic that has spilled over from the household into taverns. Whether it’s a business visit to Nis , visiting relatives or friends, visiting one of the festivals in the city or coming to some sport event, and the host takes him to lunch (which in Nis we often called a light breakfast that lasts until late at night), or goes to lunch on his own initiative, this „event“ is remembered for a lifetime and remains the main association when the largest city in southern Serbia – Nis, is in question – and that is food. I would not like to arrange taverns in Nis in terms of quality because everyone has their own place where the waiters know his name, where his other house is, where he comes and socializes and also come when wants to be alone. The legendary citizen of Nis Dusko Radovic gave the brightest definition of kafanas in Serbia:
“ – What do men do in kafanas?
– They aren’t doing anything.
– And what are they talking about there?
– Nothing special.
– Then why are they sitting in kafanas?
– Just because of that. “
I can’t resist that the first kafana I will mention will be the one with the highest quality food in this part of Serbia, and certainly, no matter how bravely this statement seems, the best barbecue in Europe and a place where waiters know my name .
Kafana Mrak
Institution. That would be an appropriate word if I had to describe this place in just one word. Although the approach and location of this restaurant do not promise (located in the Nis settlement Ratko Jovic, at the exit from Nis to the highway and toll station Nis – North) and maybe even the interior of the this kafana, immediately after occupying a combat position you begin to realize that you have come to the right place. The waiters are kind, cultural, unobtrusive, the menu is multilingual, and only exclusive restaurants in Belgrade and Novi Sad in Serbia can boast of such a wine list. It is known in the south of Serbia. Without brandy, in Serbian language called rakija nothing starts, not even lunch in a tavern. A wide range of various Serbian producers allows you to choose this aperitif of your choice: made of plum, quince, pear, apricot, vine, herbs and so on. Salads are divided into winter and summer. In winter, a combination of pihtije, sauerkraut and ajvar is unavoidable, while in the summer season there aresocalled Moravian ( tomato, rosted paprika, garslic and oliveoil )and vitamin salad ( gratted cabbage, carrot and radish with garlic nad olive oil). With the always great selection of cheeses, the absolute recommendation is trljanica (mixed cow’s cheese, roasted paprika, a little garlic and olive oil), which is on the menu throughout the year.Barbecue! What to say… In any case, you should definitely try the burger (either beef or mutton), stuffed chicken breast, meatballs, peasant hanger, while I personally heard the praise of a citizen of the United States that tried steaks where he traveled all over the world and that in his life he did not eate a better steak on an egg than in the kafana Mrak Mile Stojković on the boulevard February 12 in Niš! The busiest pubs in Nis could also be proud of their choice of beer.
When someone asks me what kind of kafana is that, how could I not describe it to them as much as you do here, I just tell them „the only famous person who did not come to kafana Mrak, and stayed in Nis is Novak Djokovic“. Athletes, actors, politicians, ambassadors, celebrities seem to be unable to imagine their arrival in Nis without coming to this cafe. It is interesting that despite all these celebrities, this facility still retains the status of a tavern and has not grown into a restaurant. The ordinary people still stops by for a pljeskavica on their feet or for a rakija.
Kafana Biser
One of the oldest kafanas in Nis, which is managed by Mrs. Marta, has three facilities in Nis. If you want to have a quick drink or something to eat in the summer, the garden, which is actually located on the sidewalk in Kosta Stamenkovića Street and under 50-year-old linden trees, is the right choice. In winter, you will have the privilege of smelling on barbecue and smoke for days after staying inside this tavern. The facility on the tennis courts in Jadranska Street, next to Nisava and under the walls of the ancient Nis fortress, is the right place to quench your thirst and get away from the city noise and heat during the summer days. The sausage there has a divine taste.
Kafana Orač
Located at the beginning of the legendary Knjaževačka Street in Niš, across from the old Nitex chlotes factory , now a productive hall of Italian Benetton, there is a great tavern, a favorite place of many citizens of Nis and their guests – Kafana Orač. Whatever you order there, you won’t go wrong, but it is still a warm recommendation to go there around 1 pm, because you will have a hard time eating better roast lamb in Nis.
Kafana Galija
Kafana Galija, one of the oldest, if not the oldest taverns in Nis, the tavern after which the legendary Nis rock band – Galija was named, is located in the strict downtown of Nis – in Nikola Pasic Street and has its own summer garden in the bohemian part of Nis – to the potter’s alley. Guests are often entertained by quality acoustic music performed by the best musicians from Nis.
Kafana Amerikanac
Also, the tavern that has existed intermittently for over 40 years is the kafana at the foot of Kovanluk in Nis – in Kovanlucka Street – Amerikanac. What is a betrayal of other Nis catering facilities is that the tavern is run by the famous Nis musician Saita, who also plays in it with his band. What can be heard from the opus of Shaban Bajramovic and other gypsy music is masterful. Pure emotion.
Nishlijska Mehana
Also, one of the oldest kafanas in the largest city in the south of Serbia is Nislijska Mehana, located in the beautiful Prvomajska Street in Nis. The great wine list of various Serbian small wine producers stands out, the wonderful ambience in the cellar of the same and the message on the already reserved table – You are late!
Kafana Mali Podrum
In the heart of Nis, but again out of the noise and crowds, there is a cafe Mali podrum ( little cellar ) Why is it called that? Well, because some twenty years ago it was opened in the basement of a house in Stevan Nemanja Street. It is characterized by a small garden under a beautiful tree-lined avenue, always fresh and delicious salads as well as sheep’s sausage and roasts, which are, as the old people of Nis say, hot at lunch time.
Kafana Dagi Plus
The specificity of this cafe, which is located in the Nis settlement of Trošarina, in Radmila Kovačević Street, are all possible and impossible sheep meat specialties. I remember my long time ago coming to this cafe, at the urging of a friend and the waiter’s answer when I asked him which white wine he had for a spritzer – he sad you will get one that I will bring to you. Some taverns are visited only once in life time.
Kafana Tri Fenjera
In the immediate vicinity of the Nis Green Market and the Banovina of Nis – where the administration of the University of Nis is located, there is also an old kafana – Three Lanterns. In short – if you want to get seriously fat and not eat for the next two days, this is the right place for you. Pork leg and veal tails. They are looking for liters of syringe or beer. Recommendation – do not eat after 3 pm because you will digest it until tomorrow at the same time. Greasy and sweet, it sticks to your fingers. Incredibly.
Kafana Skadarlija
A cafe that has existed since 1987, which has not changed its appearance or interior since its opening. A couple of yellowed air conditioners were installed at the beginning of the 20th century, woven pixels and checkered tablecloths were replaced by the same ones ten years ago, carpets on the wall still carry dust from the time of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. In the ecstasy of live music and alcohol, mostly during the winter months, guest used to unscrew the light bulbs and continue their conduction only from the lighting coming from the flagpole in Dušanova Street. During the day, a gathering place of all kinds of people who, as in a shop window, peel their third brandy or drink their first morning Turkish coffee trying to wash away the stains from last night. This cafe has a soul, definitely, and musicians and waiters paint it and give it that old-fashioned flair.
Kafana Roštiljko
The youngest of all the above is the Roštiljko tavern in Urša Predića Street in Niš, but equally good and also specific for the ready meals by the recopies of our grandmothers, as well as for the great barbecue and Paradise rose wine, pleasant garden and always pleasant music. Ska, reggae and rock rhythm can often be heard from the speakers.
It is impossible to list everything in the sea of Nis taverns. A special atmosphere is to visit small kafanas, local taverns that absolutely every settlement in Nis has . Some of the favorite places of some Nis residents are the cafes Zlatković, Amfora, Zlatni Dukat, Olio, Kabak, Verige, Kod Rajka, Stari Jastrebac, Dušanov Konak, Lion Plus, Svrljižanka, etc.
In any case, we can say with certainty that Nis is the absolute capital of barbecue in Serbia, the people of Leskovac, forgive me!
Bon appétit !!!
